Saturday, November 21, 2009

Yamaha FZ1 Gen II technical

My findings about not very well documented stuff will appear here. They are subject to change. Updates every weekend until my setup is perfect.
Check out these pages for guidance:
London Bikers, suspension setup demystified and

Riding style and conditions: Commuting to work, either 15 minute ride through town or a 10 minutes on the freeway. Occasional wheelies to remind myself that fun's not over yet even though I'm 30+. Occasional 15-20 minutes of freeway ride, and B-roads every weekend or so in the summer.

5,0L/100KM Highway easy riding
8,6L/100KM Town commuting

Weight savers:
Removing the tools and center stand saves 1,3 Kg. The OEM silencer weighs 7 Kg, and replacing it with a Yoshimura TRC steel sleeve slip-on saves 3,5 kg. Removing the centerstand also makes getting the sidestand out easier.

Suspension adjustment
Rider weight: 110 KG + gear = 123 KG
Suspension adjustment fork:
Preload adjustment:
One+ spring preload indicator decreases fork travel by 8mm. The manual indicates 5,5 "clicks" as standard, 6 is too soft for me, the bike dives too much.
Setup scenario: I want my bike to be a bit stiffer as for inspired backroad driving, somewhat like a sports bike, but not as a bench (read: Ducati)
5 is firm-ish, but it looks like there's too much travel way left, about 50 mm by eye-measure.
With the spring preload at 5, You will feel potholes as with a german car with stiff springs. The fork will be a bit stiffer, the bike doesn't dive as much under braking, and the ride will be comfortable enough. This setup will swallow speed bumps at ~40 km/h without a problem.
You might want to try 4,5 or 4 to harden the preload, and make the bike dive even less.

Compression damping: (left fork leg)
Standard is 5 clicks to the left. My setup is 6 clicks to the left. You'll want at least 6 clicks to the left if you're doing wheelies all the time. Landings are pretty hard otherwise.

1 click to the left is megastiff, like a bicycle. Speed bumps will be rock hard at 35 km/h.
26 clicks to the left will feel like you're jumping in bed, a jump, and you go up and down on the springs a couple of times. This will swallow the speed bump softly, but you'll bounce up and around after impact. Terrible sensation.

Rebound damping: (right fork leg)
Standard is 18 clicks to the left out of 28. My setup is 18 clicks to the left.
The standard is good for street riding, I don't feel the need to change it.

Suspension adjustment rear:
Tried 1+ preload, 10+ rebound. Bike spins on full throttle. Rebounds are too hard, you feel shocks in your back , even with smaller obstacles
Current setup: 3+ preload, 8+ rebound - default

Spring preload:
Standard is 3 clicks, I run with 3 atm. I tried 1 click
Rebound damping:
Standard is 8, I tried 10, and the rebounds were a bit too hard, I felt the shocks in my back. Slower rebound can adjust chassis pitch, and slow down weight transfer to the front.

Also make sure You read the suspension setup info at the following pages: (for Fireblades)

Fuel gauge issues
The fuel gauge stays at 100% for over 90 km, then suddenly drops to 50% and then makes another sudden drop to the reserve. This was resolved by changing the fuel pump unit which has the fuel measurement unit incorporated. Now the gauge goes to
-1 dot after ~40 km
-2 dots after ~70 km
UPDATE: My Yamaha shop changed the fuel pump unit, which has the fuel meter incorporated, on the extended warranty. It's all good now!

Tuesday, October 27, 2009

Malmö Bike Open 2010

23-25 juli kommer Srif annordna en ren bike tävling i Malmö med jippo runt omkring så att alla som saknar Bikeweekend i Västerås känner igen sig. Vi kommer köra dragbike klasser o även 3 klasser för gatcyklar med förare utan tidigare tävlingslicenser Stans snabbaste Hoj , Snabbaste Twinnen o classiker klass. tältmöjligheter servering liveband o mycket mer kommer att finnas så missa inte detta. Kommer mer info så småningom.

Klicka på knappen och lägg till det i din kalender

Sunday, September 20, 2009


So I crashed. I'm a lucky guy, just broke my fibula at the ankle even though I hit a tree and flew a couple of meters ..

Tuesday, September 08, 2009

Windows 7 bugs

So far, Microsoft have released the best Windows yet with Windows 7. Still, it suffers from the regular irritating annoyances. I'll post them here and update as I discover them.

Sleep issue: pressing sleep logs off the user, flickers screen, but remains at the login prompt. Repeatable behaviour.

Desktop gadgets right click menu doesn't work - Gadgets subsystem hung ? One of the gadgets is dead, not all (the weather gadget)

Cracking noises in the loudspeakers without doing anything with multimedia. They appear randomly, and when playing music. Creative driver problems or audio subsystem problem. I'll try the beta driver from Creative released in august 2009 to see if that fixes the problem.

3D: While in a game the following screen was displayed, failsafe graphics mode initiated, and the game terminated:BUT AT LEAST IT DIDN'T KILL WINDOWS! THIS IS A BREAKTHROUGH! A graphics problem that doesn't produce the Blue Screen of Death! It was about f----n time ...

Sound: cracking noises in both idle mode and when playing sound, as in mp3 or games, with both Microsoft's own Audigy4 drivers, and Creative's two sets, the stable and the beta (SBAX_PCDRVBETA_US_2_18_0001 and SBAX_PCDRV_LB_2_18_0011 and SBAX_PCDRVBETA2_US_2_18_0011).

This is caused by the driver selecting DVD Quality(48000 Hz) in the Advanced tab, even though it's probably not supported. Reset to 44100 Hz (CD Quality) and it works better, BUT it still gives in-game white noise and cracking sounds.

Power functions: new sleep issue: you select sleep, it flickers, turns off the screen, and comes right back - sleep doesn't work

2009-10-26 Media Center crashed on clicking "Movies". I think I'll stick to XBMC

Wednesday, July 01, 2009

Michael Jacksons death

You've probably heard that Michael Jackson died recently, but you haven't heard how. I hear two different stories:
1. His nose fell in his mouth and he choked on it
2. He bent down to pick up a small child and his head fell off

I'm wondering which one is true ...

Thursday, June 04, 2009


Många undrar vilken trafikzon de bor i när de ska kolla i försäkringstabeller

Sunday, May 03, 2009


View Larger Map
Malmö (Statoil Derbyvägen)
>Väg 984
>och slutligen vänster mot Sjöbo på väg 13
(här kan du gazza jävlar)

Friday, March 20, 2009

Helmet visor fog

So who drives a motorcycle and hasn't had problems with a foggy visor ? I thought I should sum up the best solutions here. It's all about reducing the surface tension of the minuscule waterdrops which the fog is made of. When this surface tension is reduced, the fogging effect is reduced.

1. Shaving cream: apply a thin layer of shaving cream to the inside of the visor. Be sure that you don't push it into the vents. Wipe clean with a dry cloth. It's actually possible to get a clean visor, without smudges. Use the inside of a sweats
hirt (soft). Works, but when standing still the damp builds up to an oil-like film in parts of the visor. The damp dries quickly when driving away. Not as bad as fog, but still. This is still a good solution for glasses, even though it creates a slight lens flare effect. Works in speeds from 30 km/h upwards.

2. Dish washing liquid: apply to inside of visor and let it dry. Wipe clean with dry cloth. Should be as effective as the shaving cream. Haven't tried it myself.

3. Pinlock: damp absorbing plastic that you need to screw on to your visor. Seems like a more permanent solution. You need to drill two holes in your 100€ visor which can scare some people. Check out the WebBikeWorld review for this piece of kit.

4. Fog City or ProGrip visor inserts. See the WebBikeWorld review. Some say that damp builds up like an oil film when breathing heavily (read: not perfect, might as well stick with shaving cream)

5. Respro Foggy Mask: Neoprene breath guard, comes recommended. Just bought a couple of these babies. I hope this saves me the trouble of using butter on my glasses.

6. There are a number of other sprays, impregnated cloths, etc, of which a small number work more or less. Try on your glasses before you buy ;)
Picture: Respro Foggy mask

Tuesday, February 24, 2009

Sunday, February 15, 2009

True Love

cannot be expressed in words .. Saeco12 , member of shows you what true love is:

Thursday, February 12, 2009

Linux: Apache and SVN with mod_dav and mod_dav_svn

This shows Apache2 and SVN with basic authentication. Digest didn't work for me. If you have it working with Digest authentication, please comment on this post.

The following lines need to be enabled in /etc/httpd/conf/httpd.conf:

LoadModule dav_module modules/
LoadModule dav_svn_module modules/

Then the following section needs to be created:

Now you need to create the /etc/svn-auth file and add users to it with:
htpasswd -c /etc/svn-auth

Restart Apache, and you should be able to browse your repository

Sunday, February 08, 2009

Install frame sliders Yamaha FZ6 S2

Installing frame sliders seems just a bit more tricky than assembling something from IKEA.
the bolts are steel, the frame is aluminium, you don't want to tighten it too hard. You might want to apply some locking agent so the engine doesn't fall off because the vibration loosened the bolts. I'm planning on taking some screenshots of the bike and manual, write down some figures for torque tightening, locking agent, and so on.

First of all, go get a torque wrench, and Loctite locking agent Loctite 242 Blue which specifically should resist vibration or Loctite 222 blue ( Loctite® 222 Low strength threadlocker for fasteners up to M36. Allows disassembly with normal tools. Approvals; P1 NSF Reg. No.: 123002 Thread size: up to M 36 Strength: low; Functional strength (average at 22°C): 6 hours breakloose torque determined in accordance with DIN 54454: 6 Nm)

... (Nagging wife, gotta go)